A Touch of Earth

A Touch of Earth
(in the North Market)
59 Spruce St
Columbus, Ohio 43215

Another pleasant surprise! A Touch of Earth is located in the North Market in the Short North. It offers a variety of local roasters' beans to buy by the pound and has a little coffee bar with stools for sipping your beverage. They offer two blends of espresso for their own drinks; Crimson Cup's Armando's Blend and Cafe Brioso's Milano blend. They also offer two great baristas, Shawn and Joy, who were a lot of fun to talk with while we drank cup after cup of coffee*.

Espresso

Equipment: La Pavoni grinders and a 2-group Brasilia Gradisca espresso machine. This model is unusual in that the group heads are positioned outside of the housing that contains the boiler and temperature controls. Some say this causes the groups to lose heat and negatively affect quality in the cup. As you will see, our experience contradicts any doubts about what this machine can do.

Wow! Another decently pulled shot! The shot began nice and slow, dark and thick, and was pulled directly into a preheated demitasse (with a spoon!). We first had Armando's blend, which is slick and very acidic. Not Bronwyn's favorite, but Damion likes it. Then we found out about the second option and went for the Milano blend. It was smoother, charcoaly, and thick-bodied. Although we asked for a double ristretto, the shot was pulled too long. Both had nice crema, however.

Positives:
Used dry towel for cleaning the portafilter between shots
Ground per shot
Served with saucer and spoon (and chocolate-covered espresso bean)
Dark crema on both espressos
Purged group
Preheated demitasse

Negatives:
Did not give us ristretto shots

Cappuccino

The cappuccino here was pretty good: well-done shots (we had the Milano blend for this one), great foam, yet it was very dry. It was served in a cup with a saucer and spoon, although we had to ask for the proper size and make sure we were all on the same page of what that is (6-8oz). The usually use 12 or 16 ounce cups. While both the espresso and the foam were great, the barista did not free-pour the drink; he simply scooped the foam into the cup from the pitcher. This contributed to an extremely dry cappuccino with non-standard ratios of espresso:milk:foam. It was still delicious though, and the foam made from Snowville Creamery whole milk was robust enough to enjoy with the aforementioned tiny spoon.

Positives:
Uses whole milk as their default
Sturdy melted ice cream foam
Preheated cup

Negatives:
Did not free-pour
Too dry

Drip

The drip coffees are provided in self-serve airpots in front of the espresso machine. Although I got the last 12 ounces of Crimson Cup's Peruvian coffee, it tasted fresh and had the rustic flavor and subdued acidity one wants in a Peru.


*Hopefully you guys don't mind being name-checked. We can always be reached at columbuscoffeereview AT gmail DOT com for any corrections, comments, or concerns!

KickStart: Scooters, Coffee, and a Unicorn

KickStart
913 N High Street
Columbus, Ohio 43201

Kickstart is in the Short North district of Columbus, independently owned, selling both scooters and coffee. The smell of rubber tires overwhelms the coffee smells one usually expects when entering a coffee shop. Parked next to the door is an old-style scooter for sale along with some mopeds and 50s-vintage Royal Enfield motorcycles. Helmets and jackets hang on racks alongside wooden displays of unusual and rare candies (like cult favorite Sen-Sen). Music from the era of British cafe racers filled the shop with the sounds of the Rolling Stones and the Kinks. Rounding out the stylish atmosphere were abstract paintings by Jacob Samblanet and polished metal diner tables that each had a container of coffee beans holding a deck of playing cards and artistically bent forks.

There are no pushy scooter salesmen ready to pounce on unwary customers who just want a coffee and some wi-fi bandwidth, just pierced and tattooed baristas. They were friendly and helpful when we asked them questions about the shop and how they made the coffee. When they did not have a pot of house drip coffee ready they brought the cup out to the table along with a pitcher of cream when it was done brewing. KickStart strikes that rare balance between unique employee personality and excellent customer service. It all comes down to the education of the baristas, though, and if they do not know what they are doing they will not know how to make a good cup of coffee.

Espresso

The espresso that Bronwyn got (Damion had an espresso previously that was much superior*) was a watery, bitter mess. Tan, dissipating crema circled the top for probably less than a minute. We did not finish it.

Equipment: La Marzocco (new and shiny), Swift grinder system

Beans: Caruso Coffee; Brecksville, Ohio (between Cleveland and Akron)

Positives:
Used dry towel for cleaning the portafilter basket
Portafilters were kept in groupheads between shots
Ceramic demitasse and saucer (no spoon, though)

Negatives:
Shot was way too fast
Did not preheat cup
Did not pull shot directly into demitasse (it was split into two shot glasses and reunited in the demitasse)
Crema was tan and did not linger
Did not purge the group before pulling another shot

*(Note from Damion: I had a double shot before Bronwyn arrived and it was amazing. The thick, persistent crema was flecked and swirled. Sweet, smooth, clean finish, firm body, and hints of cocoa had me convinced that this place knew what it was doing. After Bronwyn had her terrible shot and we shared an even worse third shot I acknowledged that the unicorn I tasted earlier had run far, far away.)

Cappuccino

This was a terrible cappuccino. First, they did not have a traditional sized (5-7oz) mug for traditional cappuccinos, yet they offered one on the menu. Second, we received bubble bath foam instead of melted-ice-cream milk froth. There were no positive aspects to this cappuccino, unfortunately.

Negatives:
Bubble bath foam
2% is their default milk
Did not preheat cup
Did not have proper sized cup
Did not serve with saucer nor spoon
Used same espresso procedures as above
Quickly became bitter
Terrible liquid/foam ratio (too much liquid, basically a latte)

Drip Coffee

The Organic blend was disappointing, although we did not have high expectations with which to begin. It was watery and boring. No flavors stood out and there was not great body, though when I added milk it held up sufficiently. The cream-worthy House blend had notes of wood fresh from a band saw. Like most drip coffees, the offerings here are well suited for absent-minded sipping.

Overall, KickStart was unimpressive. I would recommend this coffee shop solely for the relaxed atmosphere and friendly service. And selling $3 cappuccinos along with $3000 scooters is a brilliant business model and a fine example of entrepreneurial innovation. As for the coffee, well, it isn't great but you get free refills.

Cuppy's Coffee Review (and long-winded introduction)

Making coffee is one of the first things I do after I wake up. In that, I am not unique. Most people in developed, Western countries do something like this every morning. And if they don't make it themselves then they wake up and go to someone like me who works behind a La Marzocco espresso machine. If I lived in an undeveloped country I probably wouldn't be drinking coffee at all. Instead, I would wake up and start tending to coffee trees. Coffee is not the second most globally traded commodity after oil, but it is the second most valuable commodity exported by developing countries. Every day millions of people drink or cultivate coffee, brew coffee or pick it. It is a global phenomenon and a monument to human ingenuity (and chemical dependence).

So here we are, two baristas and coffee enthusiasts in Columbus, Ohio named Damion and Bronwyn, casually drinking a cup of "global phenomenon." But where did we get it? Who made it? And, most importantly, how good is it? There are hundreds of places to get coffee in Ohio's capital city and only around forty-five of those places (not including certain national chains) could be considered "specialty coffee retailers." It is our goal to earnestly review each and every place in and around Columbus that sells any sort of specialty coffee. This means we'll be drinking and rating a lot of espresso and baristas, but a few Turkish and African cafes will be thrown in the mix as well. We'll also be posting some general articles and resources about the coffee industry and how it relates to agriculture, trade, the environment, and society.

With that said, let's get on to our first review and a snapshot of our coffee review rubric!

Cuppy's Coffee
849 N High St
Columbus, OH 43215
(614) 291-8110

Cuppy's Coffee is located in the Short North in Columbus, OH. It's a national franchise based out of Florida. Cuppy's is a run-of-the-mill coffee shop, not really differing from most others, serving the same mediocre beverages as most other shops. Huge smoothie advertisements and garish multimedia art works set the tone. Leather couches and small tables are lined against the wall of this very small storefront shop. A flat panel LCD television was tuned to CNN while ambient electronic music was played by a sattelite radio station.

Cuppy's service was very friendly and speedy, though they were not very busy. The barista was chatty and not arrogant (as many can be). A newcomer to the coffee industry, he was eager to talk shop and receptive to tips about pulling shots. However, the Cuppy's people left out a few details during the franchisee training program (nine days at their Florida HQ).

Drip Coffee

The drip coffee comes in the standard 12, 16, and 20 ounce cup sizes. A paper cup with logo-emblazoned sleeve was handed to me and I was directed to the self-serve airpots around a corner where three blends of coffee were available. Despite being self-serve, Cuppy's charges for refills.

The medium roast House Blend was pretty basic: low acidity, clean finish, woody/earthy flavor. It was not outstanding in any one category, presumably to appeal the cream and sugar crowd.

Shot of Espresso

It was an unimpressive shot of espresso common to many coffee shops accross the States. The barista did not have the requisite espresso knowledge to create a delicious beverage.

Beans: Caffe D'arte (developed by Cuppy's)

Barista Performance

Positives:
The barista ground per shot
Kept the portafilters in groups
Separate hand tamp (did not use the grinder's)

Negatives:
Portafilters were not cleaned properly between shots (used solely a coarse brush; no dry towel)
No purging between shots
No preheated cup
Did not pour shot directly into cup
Used stainless steel cup
Did not serve espresso with saucer nor spoon

Appearance

Shot was too fast
Thick, spaghetti-like streams, but badly discolored (tan)
Khaki colored crema that did not last long

Taste and Texture

Not as thick as it should be, but not the thinnest, either
Sour, plastic taste

Cappuccino

Although eager to talk about the ins and outs of coffee, the barista/owner simply did not know how to create a real, traditional cappuccino. There was only half an inch of foam that was bubbly and not smooth; although not as bad as bubble bath foam (where the foam looks like bath bubbles; this is not appealing nor delicious). Paired with a not so great shot of espresso, this cappuccino was drinkable but not something we would advise you do on a regular basis (in fact, it would be recommended to avoid Cuppy's).

Barista Performance

Used the same problematic espresso as before
Did not pour espresso directly into cup
Did not preheat the cup
Faulty ratio of liquid/foam
Foam was not free-poured; scooped
Bubbly foam
Did not offer whole milk; only 2%, skim, or half & half (I had 2%)
Served with saucer; no spoon

All-in-all, Cuppy's is there to sell product and prosper as a retail franchise. Although the owner is a nice enough guy, it is clear that he is a businessman first, barista second. Better suited to a mall, it seems out of place in a neighborhood of small businesses and restaurants that pride themselves on superior craft and unique experiences.

One last thing:

What we look for in a Coffee Shop and its Coffee

In the reviews, there will be a general overall assessment of the beverage, then a detailed account of imperative actions pertaining to preparing and serving coffee. These will be the drinks reviewed:

1. Espresso
2. Cappuccino
3. Drip
4. Beans (in french press, if possible)

The more detailed categories discussed later in the review will include Barista Performance, Appearance and Taste.

The standards for judging the coffee will be the following:

Espresso (double ristretto)
Barista Performance
Does the barista grind per shot?
How old is the coffee used?
What kind of coffee is used?
How long has it been in the hopper?
What kind of machine does the shop have?
Are the portafilters kept in the groupheads or out?
Does the barista purge the group before pulling a shot?
Is the basket in the portafilter wiped out before packed? What is the basket cleaning process?
What is the tamping method used?
How soon is the shot served?
Is the cup preheated?
Is the shot pulled directly into the serving cup?

Appearance and Taste
What kind of cup is used? (ceramic, porcelain)
Is the cup served with a saucer and spoon?
Is there crema? If so, what color?
Is it velvety in texture?
Does it taste smooth, sweet, caramelly?

Cappuccino (traditional)
Barista Performance
Does the barista use proper espresso shot procedure?
What is the timing of the milk and espresso? Does the espresso have to wait too long to be used?
Do they use fresh milk or resteam?
Is the milk steaming loud?

Appearance and Taste
Is the milk smooth? Are there bubbles? Does it look like melted ice cream?
What is the liquid/foam ratio?
Freepoured or scooped?
What kind of cup is used?
Served with saucer and spoon?

Drip Coffee
How fresh are the beans?
Is it watery?
What kind of roast is it?
What flavors can be tasted? Is it possible to taste the flavors?