Heavenly Cup

Heavenly Cup
25 North State St.
Westerville, Ohio 43081

This small shop is in the middle of Uptown Westerville, the close-quartered and idyllic center of Westerville that stands in stark contrast with the rest of the sprawling suburb. Within the tiny corner shop there are a few tables, some gift items for sale, and a counter crammed with candy bins, displays, and coffee pots.

Espresso

Machine: Two-group Rancilio
Beans: Kaladi Brothers

The espresso was pulled too fast and tamped too little, the end result being a bitter shot without much else going on in terms of flavor.

Positives:
Served in ceramic demitasse with saucer and a chocolate-covered espresso bean.
Decent shot volume.

Negatives:
Beans not ground to-order.
Grounds not tamped. (There was no tamper present, the barista used the surface built into the machine to press down the grounds before pulling the shot.)
Crema mostly gone by the time it was served.
No purging or preheating.

Cappuccino

When I ordered the cappuccino I was asked if I wanted a lot of foam or a little foam and I chose a lot of foam. I ordered a small but received a sixteen ounce to-go cup full to the brim with styrofoam-like froth.

The problem with the so-called "bubble-bath foam" is that it does not flow. It does not harmonize with the steamed milk and espresso so that, when you tip up your cup to take a drink, it clings to the sides and doesn't move. By the time the coffee/milk mixture is drunk the bubble-bath foam remains in the cup and gets tossed out whenever someone gets around to washing it. Properly foamed milk, the kind with the invisible bubbles, is dense and aerated so that its texture is different from regular steamed milk but retains the quality of fluidity that allows it to pass from the cup to the mouth where it is enjoyed and appreciated instead of thrown out with the dishwater.

Positives:
Served with chocolate-covered espresso bean.

Negatives:
Clingy, undrinkable bubble-bath foam.
Bitter, untamped espresso shots used again.
Poorly proportioned.
Served in to-go cup (right alongside the ceramic-borne espresso, oddly enough).
Lid was put on the cup by barista--a minor point but I'd like to see what I ordered.

Drip

The drip coffees are provided in airpots. The initial purchase includes a pair of refills that can be taken any time before the shop closes. The Peruvian Andes Gold was watery, weak, and too hot.

Brennen's

Brennen's Cafe
High St. and 15th
Columbus, Ohio 43201

Brenen's is just across from the OSU campus. They offer food and a study space¹ in a two room, Olive-Gardenesque atmosphere. While the food descriptions looked delicious, the coffee itself was terrible. The details about how it was made are largely limited to what we could hear as we could not see behind the bar. However, many times one can decipher whether or not the barista knows what they are doing just by listening.

Espresso

Machine: Rancilio
Beans: Caruso's

At least 4oz of undrinkable bitterness.

Positive:
Served in ceramic cup.

Negative:
Shot was way too fast which, in turn, results in a watery, bitter shot.
No crema.
Rubbery taste.

Cappuccino

Brennen's offers what they call a Cappuccino and a Euro Cappuccino. Neither drink matches up with any accepted standards. The Euro Cappuccino is made with "equal parts espresso and foam" while the Cappuccino is "one part espresso to steamed milk topped with foam." A true cappuccino, Euro or otherwise, is one third espresso, one third steamed milk, and one third fine milk foam in a 1:1:1 ratio. This is easy for properly trained baristi² to eyeball and, besides, precision is always valued over accuracy. The palate measures by taste. The variations presented by Brennen's create enough slack in the industry standards that precision is irrelevant. These just aren't cappuccinos.

We ordered the Euro Cappuccino and the drink we received did not match up with even Brennen's standards. We were given a double shot of espresso with twelve ounces of bubbly milk foam, like an exaggerated macchiato.

Negative:
No ceramic cup; served in 16 ounce styrofoam cup.
Incorrect ratio of espresso, milk, and foam.
Transparent bubble bath foam.
Undrinkably bitter, tire fire rubber taste.
Loud milk frothing, looked like barista was shaking a baby.

¹ The study space was a separate room without the music that played in the main dining area. It shares a wall with the kitchen at the neighboring Jimmy John's, so all the classic rock on their radio and clatter pans were plainly audible.

² Many times the baristi working behind the counter are doing the best with what they're given. This is likely the case with Brennen's, since the owners decided to go rogue with their cappuccino stylings. Although the role of barista has been heightened lately in the Specialty industry, employees are only as good as their training. It would be like a car repair shop that spends thousands of dollars on tools and marketing and then expects the first Tom, Dick, or Harry off the street to be able to work miracles on broken vehicles by doing nothing more than handing them a $50 wrench. In general, the best shops are those that understand training and education as an important aspect of quality-in-the-cup and belong to the Specialty Coffee Association of America (scaa.org). You can also check out the 2009 WBC competition standards for cappuccinos (§2.1.2) here.

Kafe Kerouac

Kafe Kerouac
2250 N High St
Columbus, Ohio 43201

Kafe Kerouac is a little shop selling books, cds and vinyl, alcohol and coffee to the college kids of Columbus. Located on North High Street on the corner of Northwood, this campus hangout holds various events including cigar and poetry nights (held separately), and offers a quiet space to study while drinking, unfortunately, not so great coffee.

Espresso

Machine: Faema Due
Beans: Chief Cooker

Overall, a thin, bitter shot that was undrinkable.

Negative:
Watery
Shot came way too fast
Did not preheat cup
No saucer or spoon
Tan crema that dissipated quickly

Positive:
Cleaned portafilter between shots (with micropore towel!)
Purged between shots
Ground per shot

Cappuccino

A bubble bath foam with watery espresso. They only had two percent milk, but the barista offered to make whole for me by mixing half and half and two percent (thanks, lady!). Unfortunately, while this was a very nice offer that we appreciate and took advantage of, it did not enhance the beverage by much.

Negative:
Bubble bath foam

Did not have proper size, but the barista did make a smaller cappuccino because we asked, so thank you!

Same sad espresso as above
Inappropriate ratio

Pulled shots before steaming milk, leaving our shots to spoil before they even had a chance to prove themselves

Drip

They feature a "Private Reserve" blended especially for KK. It was pretty good but did not stand out in any particular area.

Espresso Cafe

Espresso Cafe
250 Civic Center Dr.
Columbus, Ohio 43215

Espresso Cafe is a little shop on the Riverfront in Downtown Columbus. It features not only coffee and espresso beverages but also breakfast and lunch food. The patio has very nice chairs and a great view of the river. Two computers and a printer are available for the office worker that has neither laptop nor coffee. While Damion tried to score a view of the barista's activity, he missed the action as much of the machine is obscured because of how it is situated on the counter. This did not matter much, as the product told us everything. They also offer a soda fountain and a "French vailla latte" machine like one might find at a gas station.

Espresso

Overall, a pretty terrible shot. It was served in a styrofoam cup...a 16 ounce styrofoam cup full a good third of way with espresso. It was extremely bitter. Let's review: a 5-6 ounce "double shot" in a 16 ounce STYROFOAM cup.

Positive:
They use Ohio's own Caruso's Coffee, Volare blend, for their espresso.

Negative:
Served in styrofoam cup (they have no "for here" cups whatsoever).
Thin; very watery.
Tan, dissipating crema.
Very bitter.
Beans were not ground per shot.

Shots had body like they were brewed in a French press. Which is fine (if it were brewed in a French press).
Before our drinks were started there was dried, crusty milk left on the steam wand from a previous customer's order. On that basis, it is safe to conclude that the machine is not cleaned or wiped down at all between uses.

Cappuccino

The cappuccino had some surprisingly well-steamed milk but, when coupled with the terrible espresso, it was undrinkable. The ratio was way off (it was quite heavy), not to mention the volume. There were only 16 or 20 ounce sizes available.

Positive:
Well-steamed and foamed milk.

Negative:
Incorrect ratio
Same terrible shots as above
Used 2% milk
Wrong size (again, the smallest possible option is 16 ounces).
Served with grounds on the lip of the styrofoam cup.
Tasted like a Cafe au Lait. Which is fine, if what we ordered was a Cafe au Lait.

Drip

They said they had Caruso's Awaken blend brewed but none of the signs on the self-serve airpots said anything about that. I got the last bit of what was marked as "100% Colombian" and filled the rest of the cup with "House Blend." It was flat, weak, and cool.

Global Gallery

Global Gallery
3535 N. High St.
Columbus, Ohio 43214

Global Gallery is a local set of shops that sell hand-made jewelry and household items using a "trade not aid" business model that benefits people in developing countries. To this end they also sell small organic and "ethical" food items like chocolate bars and, most importantly, coffee. Global Gallery now has its own cafe in Clintonville in a building that has also been used as a garden store and a locksmith shop. Its eclectic history is reflected in various architectural idiosyncrasies, nooks, and crannies which make it a very interesting place to enjoy a coffee.

Espresso

Machine: Three-group La Pavoni

Positive:
Ground per shot.
Barista knew ristretto terminology.

Negative:
The crema dissipated quickly.
Body was too thin.
Volume of liquid in the cup was too great for a ristretto.
Did not purge group prior to or after the shot was pulled.
The espresso tasted sour and too fruity (like cough syrup, almost).

Cappuccino

Positive:
Used whole milk, so the froth held up well.
Well proportioned foam:milk:espresso.

Negative:
The serving size was too large. They have no cups smaller than 20 ounces.
Tasted sour, like the solo espresso shots.

The drink was served too hot. Damion took a regular first sip and used all the normal precautions one takes when unsure of a given drink's temperature and was still so overwhelmed by the heat that he spat it out immediately. It was pretty rough. A lot of cursing was involved.

Drip

The drip coffee (a blend called Justice) was served out of an airpot and tasted fresh, with positive grainy and sesame flavors and a slippery mouth-feel. This and the ambiance were the best part of the whole experience.

Coffee & More

Coffee & More
Corner of Gay and 3^rd Streets

This small operation features bar seating that allows customers to look out on one of Downtown's more interesting intersections. Forget that "coffee" is part of the name and drop by for a mango lassi made from scratch by the friendly and generous owner.

A Touch of Earth

A Touch of Earth
(in the North Market)
59 Spruce St
Columbus, Ohio 43215

Another pleasant surprise! A Touch of Earth is located in the North Market in the Short North. It offers a variety of local roasters' beans to buy by the pound and has a little coffee bar with stools for sipping your beverage. They offer two blends of espresso for their own drinks; Crimson Cup's Armando's Blend and Cafe Brioso's Milano blend. They also offer two great baristas, Shawn and Joy, who were a lot of fun to talk with while we drank cup after cup of coffee*.

Espresso

Equipment: La Pavoni grinders and a 2-group Brasilia Gradisca espresso machine. This model is unusual in that the group heads are positioned outside of the housing that contains the boiler and temperature controls. Some say this causes the groups to lose heat and negatively affect quality in the cup. As you will see, our experience contradicts any doubts about what this machine can do.

Wow! Another decently pulled shot! The shot began nice and slow, dark and thick, and was pulled directly into a preheated demitasse (with a spoon!). We first had Armando's blend, which is slick and very acidic. Not Bronwyn's favorite, but Damion likes it. Then we found out about the second option and went for the Milano blend. It was smoother, charcoaly, and thick-bodied. Although we asked for a double ristretto, the shot was pulled too long. Both had nice crema, however.

Positives:
Used dry towel for cleaning the portafilter between shots
Ground per shot
Served with saucer and spoon (and chocolate-covered espresso bean)
Dark crema on both espressos
Purged group
Preheated demitasse

Negatives:
Did not give us ristretto shots

Cappuccino

The cappuccino here was pretty good: well-done shots (we had the Milano blend for this one), great foam, yet it was very dry. It was served in a cup with a saucer and spoon, although we had to ask for the proper size and make sure we were all on the same page of what that is (6-8oz). The usually use 12 or 16 ounce cups. While both the espresso and the foam were great, the barista did not free-pour the drink; he simply scooped the foam into the cup from the pitcher. This contributed to an extremely dry cappuccino with non-standard ratios of espresso:milk:foam. It was still delicious though, and the foam made from Snowville Creamery whole milk was robust enough to enjoy with the aforementioned tiny spoon.

Positives:
Uses whole milk as their default
Sturdy melted ice cream foam
Preheated cup

Negatives:
Did not free-pour
Too dry

Drip

The drip coffees are provided in self-serve airpots in front of the espresso machine. Although I got the last 12 ounces of Crimson Cup's Peruvian coffee, it tasted fresh and had the rustic flavor and subdued acidity one wants in a Peru.


*Hopefully you guys don't mind being name-checked. We can always be reached at columbuscoffeereview AT gmail DOT com for any corrections, comments, or concerns!

The Bexley Coffee Shop

The Bexley Coffee Shop
492 North Cassady Avenue
Bexley, OH, 43209

The Bexley Coffee Shop has blindsided us with its greatness! Owned by Paulette and Sean Sullivan, it is on the east side of Columbus in Bexley, situated on a relatively uncrowded commercial street next to a UDF. We were surprised and delighted with our coffees, both made quite well.

Espresso

The barista knew what we were talking about when we said we wanted a double short pull! Ordinarily there is a moment in which we explain to the person behind the counter what a ristretto is, but the self-trained owner, Paulette, went right to work. She gave us two beautiful shots that dripped slowly at first, dark brown, the streams thick like cooked spaghetti. Once in the cup, it was syrupy sweet, thick as cream, and tasted like the smell of coffee beans. It also had a great crema that stuck around for a long time. This is the way espresso should be.

Machine: Rancilio 2-group espresso machine (and Rancilio grinders)
Beans: Chief Cooker

Positives:
Barista knew what a short pull is, and even called it a "ristretto," it's correct name.
Used dry towel to clean portafilter between shots
Ground per shot
Used demitasse cup
Dark, speckled crema
Sweet

Negatives:
Portafilters not kept in groups
Did not preheat cups
Left freshly packed portafilters in groups for too long before pulling the shot
No spoon

Cappuccino

Like the ristretto, the shots used for our cappuccinos were amazing. The whole milk froth was just shy of the melty microfoam we were hoping for after the command performance with the espressos. Quibbles over the size of microscopic bubbles notwithstanding, this was a great cappuccino.

Positives:
Used whole milk
Good foam:milk:espresso ratio
Same espresso preparation as before
Free-poured
Served in traditional 8-10oz ceramic cup

Negatives:
Did not preheat cup
No spoon
Foam was not quite "melted ice cream"

Note: Bronwyn went back to the Bexley Coffee Shop and had the other owner-barista, who steamed her some excellent foam. Seriously delicious. The shot, on the other hand, started off great...and was looking good...then was still going, and going, and going... I did not ask for a ristretto, to be clear, but I did not ask for a lungo either. But the milk (which was soy) was amazing!

Drip

The light-roasted Organic/FT Peru was smooth bodied but offered a mild, tingling acidity. It was nutty and very fresh tasting even as it cooled.

In closing, our expectations were surpassed by this unassuming neighborhood cafe. In talking to Paulette it is easy to see that the Sullivans are excited both by the coffee they serve and the people they serve it to. Their hard work is paying off, as they have set the bar for coffee in Columbus (even if they are, techincally speaking, in Bexley).

Urban Spirit

Before we begin, we would like to thank everyone who came out to our Fair Trade/Organic coffee tasting at the Spore Infoshop! We had a great turnout and everyone really engaged in the cupping and presentation on certifications. Special thanks go to Amy, the Spore volunteer who joined us for the tasting and helped iron out some of the kinks encountered along the way. Hopefully we'll get to taste more coffees and meet more readers at future events!

Alright, on to the review:

Urban Spirit
889 E. Long Street
Columbus, Ohio 43203

Urban Spirit is located on Long Street in Olde Towne East. It carries Crimson Cup beans and boasts latte art on its advertisements. Apparently, it is much more than a coffee shop, as it offers services such as consulting, event planning and catering on their website. It is also a nexus of community involvement ranging from a weekly jazz night to political organizing. Their coffee drinks, though, are all offered with a "top hat," which means whipped cream from an aerosol can. While this is a kind service, it is not exactly what we're looking for in a coffee shop.

Espresso

Beans: Crimson Cup
Machine: Nuova Simonelli

Overall, the espresso was not as delicious as it could have been, but it was better than others. It was thicker than most, although still thin. The crema was a darker brown. The barista did not know which coffee was being used for the espresso, but we can only suspect Armando's blend...that's definitely what it tasted like (tart and syrupy).

Positives:
Ground per shot

Negatives:
Used small cappuccino cup for espresso; no demitasse available
Did not clean portafilter between shots
Did not purge group between shots
No saucer nor spoon
Shot was fast
Did not preheat cups

Cappuccino

Sadly, this was no cappuccino. It was a latte. And there was none of the latte art depicted in their advertising because there was no foam on it whatsoever (not even a little tiny layer that is quite appropriate for a latte). Bronwyn also thought it was a bit acidic for her taste. The complimentary “top hat” was declined.

Positives:
Proper size cup

Negatives:
No foam whatsoever! (It should have had at least as much foam as milk and espresso.)
Used 2% milk (whole is preferred)
Acidic
Same espresso as above
Did not preheat cup

Double-Action!

This one's a two-fer!

Suds N Java
1254 N. High St.
Columbus, Ohio 43201

Suds N Java is just South of Campus and is both a laundromat and internet cafe rolled into one. While it is a great place to do some laundry and surf the net, it needs some work on the coffee. Rather than freshly ground espresso, they use the same “coffee pods” one might find provided for guests in a hotel room. The pod was placed in the single group Nuova Simonelli machine and brewed for about a minute. Our “double shots” were about 8 ounces each, quite bitter and undrinkable. They have other redeeming qualities beside coffee. Go for the laundry and web surfing.

After the incident with the pod, we decided to switch gears and simplify.

Yeah, Me Too!
3005 Indianola Ave
Columbus, Ohio 43202

Yeah, Me Too! is situated near Studio 35 in Clintonville. It is a profoundly basic coffee shop, featuring one hot brew, one cold brew, and a limited supply of bagged roasted coffee. The Diedrich roaster they use is bolted down near the front window and bags of green beans aren't far away. The whole place is just a little bigger than a large living room but, unlike most living rooms, there are no chairs or couches. Or benches. Or stools. There are also no tables but, for as austere as it sounds, the place has a welcoming atmosphere.

The best part of Yeah, Me Too! is that all of their hot coffee is made with a French press and the beans they use vary daily. The coffee on offer was a blend of medium-dark roasted Brazil and Sumatra. The gentleman behind the counter started the press as soon as we ordered but did not ask for payment until later, and only after he served our toddies. Our first impression was that it was exceptionally clean. There was a nice, fuller body to it with a slighter acidity, and faint nuttiness. After her first round of critical sips, Bronwyn felt that it held up fantastically to cream. Overall, a delicious coffee, a great roast, and properly brewed. Nice job, Yeah, Me Too!

Caffé Apropos

Caffé Apropos
443 W 3rd Ave
Columbus, OH 43201

Caffé Apropos is a little, European-style cafe in Victorian Village on W 3rd. Tile floors imitate an outdoor patio which only emphasizes the ample real patio space outside. They feature their own roasted beans, a large wine collection, and an assortment of pastries and a menu of sandwiches, soups, and pizza. The coffee shop advertises their own roasting of coffees both flavored and non-flavored. While maybe the coffees were finely roasted, their barista was not finely trained, unfortunately.

Espresso

Equipment: Brasilia Portofino.

Beans: Apropos' own.

Overall, we got one heck of an espresso...and by that we mean we got an entire demitasse full of a double espresso. This should not happen; the shot came out too fast and ran too long, causing an over-extracted, sour shot. We should be clear that we forgot to ask for a ristretto (the standard short shot). The espresso we were given was more like a lungo (long), a shot pulled for a longer amount of time and that generally has twice the volume and twice the bitterness of a ristretto.

Positives:

Served with saucer

Negatives:

Too thin, airy
Sour; acidic in a bad way
No spoon
Shot was underdosed and overextracted
Medium-tan color of crema

Cappuccino

Sadly, your snobby coffee reviewers were engaged in a thoughtful conversation about coffee while the barista was making both beverages, so we did not take great notes on the barista's procedures. The result in the cup was all we needed to guess at what the barista was up to. The cappuccino had bubble bath foam and was not the correct size; it was served in a 12oz mug without a saucer or spoon. The acidity in the milk emphasized the acidity in the espresso. We did not finish it.

Positives:

Good ratio of milk: espresso: foam

Negatives:

Bubble bath foam (started as microfoam but quickly dissipated)
No saucer
No spoon
Incorrect size
Very acidic

Drip Coffee

The drip coffee was lighter bodied, medium acidity, and weak. It was significantly cooler than most drip coffees we have come across. Nothing to write home about.

We cupped some of Apropos' Ethiopian coffee later in the week and found it floral, of a moderate-high acidity (a good thing here), and having a moderate body to it. An excellent coffee when made at home.

Road Trip: Zanesville

While the name of this thing has Columbus in it, we are too cosmopolitan to restrain ourselves to the cafes of just one city. So when we were in Zanesville, Ohio, we stopped in at The Java House Cafe to see how they do it on the old National Road.

The Java House Cafe
1405 Maple Avenue (rear)
Zanesville, Ohio

Small in a cozy way, the Java House is really in an old carriage house at the rear of a larger, grander house. This works to the cafe's advantage in terms of atmosphere, which is quaint and comfortable. The coffee itself was not so great. We ordered an Americano and an iced Americano. The barista did not follow proper procedure as the following breakdown will show.

Equipment: Bunn Express espresso machine.

Beans: Caruso's, Brecksville.

Did Not Do:

Tamp espresso grounds (he used a tamp, but didn't apply an initial 5lbs of pressure followed by a tap on the portafilter and finished with around 30lbs)
Purge group
Clean portafilter
Grind per shot

Things That Should Not Have Happened But Did:

The Americano came with three shots. The barista pulled the first double shot with fresh grounds and pulled the third shot simply by re-extracting the shot he packed for the double. The same grounds were used twice which, along with loose tamping, resulted in a limp, underextracted, watery Americano.

The shots for the iced Americano were poured directly over the ice. Science does not provide a reason why this is bad (possibly something to do with ascorbic acid) but when it is done the result is bitterness instead of icy sweetness and depth.

While we were pleased to see a place serving locally roasted specialty coffee in a small, relatively remote town, the drinks themselves were disappointing. The necessary elements for a great experience were in place, but the Java House would do well to invest in a barista training course to tie it all together.

Crimson Cup

Crimson Cup Coffee House
4541 North High Street
Columbus, OH 43214

Crimson Cup is a Columbus-based coffee roaster that serves high-volume clients like OSU as well as small coffee shops around the country. They have a special coffee startup program that educates entrepreneurs in the ways of the cafe. For years, however, they had no retail operation of their own. This changed in 2007 when they opened the Crimson Cup Coffee House in the Clintonville neighborhood. Since then they have woven themselves into the fabric of the community by displaying work from children's art classes, giving time to local musicians, and hosting small events. Those pressed for time have the option of using Crimson Cup's drive-thru. Those with a little time to kill can enjoy a clean, modern interior that features CNN on a flat-panel TV and paintings of the Crimson Cup logo. Photos of the second-wave coffee shop Espresso Experience (“Armando had his very first Caffe Latte here in February, 1980”) hang in homage to the nascent specialty coffee industry.

Espresso

The beans were Armando's Blend, a medium/dark roast mix of African, Indonesian, and Latin American coffees, for all of their espresso as well as drip coffees. This espresso was decent, better than most espressos we have had in Columbus. The crema was a darker brown but not speckled. It was sticky, on the thicker side, and really latched onto the sides of the cappuccino-sized ceramic cup (demitasses were available but not used). The result is a high-acidity shot with a strong lemon flavor and undertones of fresh dry leaves. Although their technique was a bit better than most, it still led to a bitter shot.

Equipment: Nuova Simonelli espresso machine

Beans: Armando's Blend, Crimson Cup

Positives:
Portafilters remained in groupheads between shots
Coffee ground per shot
Thick, oily texture
Dark crema
Served with saucer

Negatives:
Did not clean the portafilter or purge group between shots
Espresso grounds in the cup
Sour, unsweetened lemon zest taste
Crema did not last very long (though longer than most places' shots)
Did not preheat cup
No spoon

Cappuccino

The barista pulled the shot for this cappuccino before he started on the two espressos we ordered, then let it sit while he pulled the two espressos and steamed milk, letting the espresso for the cappuccino just sit there for at least a minute or two (the lifespan of espresso shots is 30 seconds or less). In espresso and Coffeeland, timing is everything! That shot should have been thrown out and he should have pulled a new one. Espresso does not have a limitless lifespan! Let's not even talk about the bubble bath foam.

Positives:
Used fresh milk
Whole milk is their default
Good espresso, steamed milk, foam proportions (1:1:1, 6-7oz)

Negatives:
Used same sour espresso as before
Did not preheat cup
Bubbly froth, not creamy microfoam, on top

Drip

Like the espresso, Crimson Cup's drip coffee was made with Armando's Blend. As a drip coffee the high acidity is mitigated, allowing a brightness not found in the espresso. A balanced body and flavors of citrus, berry, and light campfire smoke are present. If you like coffees that are more acidic (acidity is not always bad! It can be very good! Like a little dance on your tongue!), this is the coffee for you.

Additional Notes

Crimson Cup opened a counter inside the Gahanna Stoneridge Kroger store in February of this year and has nothing at all to do with this.

KickStart: Scooters, Coffee, and a Unicorn

KickStart
913 N High Street
Columbus, Ohio 43201

Kickstart is in the Short North district of Columbus, independently owned, selling both scooters and coffee. The smell of rubber tires overwhelms the coffee smells one usually expects when entering a coffee shop. Parked next to the door is an old-style scooter for sale along with some mopeds and 50s-vintage Royal Enfield motorcycles. Helmets and jackets hang on racks alongside wooden displays of unusual and rare candies (like cult favorite Sen-Sen). Music from the era of British cafe racers filled the shop with the sounds of the Rolling Stones and the Kinks. Rounding out the stylish atmosphere were abstract paintings by Jacob Samblanet and polished metal diner tables that each had a container of coffee beans holding a deck of playing cards and artistically bent forks.

There are no pushy scooter salesmen ready to pounce on unwary customers who just want a coffee and some wi-fi bandwidth, just pierced and tattooed baristas. They were friendly and helpful when we asked them questions about the shop and how they made the coffee. When they did not have a pot of house drip coffee ready they brought the cup out to the table along with a pitcher of cream when it was done brewing. KickStart strikes that rare balance between unique employee personality and excellent customer service. It all comes down to the education of the baristas, though, and if they do not know what they are doing they will not know how to make a good cup of coffee.

Espresso

The espresso that Bronwyn got (Damion had an espresso previously that was much superior*) was a watery, bitter mess. Tan, dissipating crema circled the top for probably less than a minute. We did not finish it.

Equipment: La Marzocco (new and shiny), Swift grinder system

Beans: Caruso Coffee; Brecksville, Ohio (between Cleveland and Akron)

Positives:
Used dry towel for cleaning the portafilter basket
Portafilters were kept in groupheads between shots
Ceramic demitasse and saucer (no spoon, though)

Negatives:
Shot was way too fast
Did not preheat cup
Did not pull shot directly into demitasse (it was split into two shot glasses and reunited in the demitasse)
Crema was tan and did not linger
Did not purge the group before pulling another shot

*(Note from Damion: I had a double shot before Bronwyn arrived and it was amazing. The thick, persistent crema was flecked and swirled. Sweet, smooth, clean finish, firm body, and hints of cocoa had me convinced that this place knew what it was doing. After Bronwyn had her terrible shot and we shared an even worse third shot I acknowledged that the unicorn I tasted earlier had run far, far away.)

Cappuccino

This was a terrible cappuccino. First, they did not have a traditional sized (5-7oz) mug for traditional cappuccinos, yet they offered one on the menu. Second, we received bubble bath foam instead of melted-ice-cream milk froth. There were no positive aspects to this cappuccino, unfortunately.

Negatives:
Bubble bath foam
2% is their default milk
Did not preheat cup
Did not have proper sized cup
Did not serve with saucer nor spoon
Used same espresso procedures as above
Quickly became bitter
Terrible liquid/foam ratio (too much liquid, basically a latte)

Drip Coffee

The Organic blend was disappointing, although we did not have high expectations with which to begin. It was watery and boring. No flavors stood out and there was not great body, though when I added milk it held up sufficiently. The cream-worthy House blend had notes of wood fresh from a band saw. Like most drip coffees, the offerings here are well suited for absent-minded sipping.

Overall, KickStart was unimpressive. I would recommend this coffee shop solely for the relaxed atmosphere and friendly service. And selling $3 cappuccinos along with $3000 scooters is a brilliant business model and a fine example of entrepreneurial innovation. As for the coffee, well, it isn't great but you get free refills.

Cuppy's Coffee Review (and long-winded introduction)

Making coffee is one of the first things I do after I wake up. In that, I am not unique. Most people in developed, Western countries do something like this every morning. And if they don't make it themselves then they wake up and go to someone like me who works behind a La Marzocco espresso machine. If I lived in an undeveloped country I probably wouldn't be drinking coffee at all. Instead, I would wake up and start tending to coffee trees. Coffee is not the second most globally traded commodity after oil, but it is the second most valuable commodity exported by developing countries. Every day millions of people drink or cultivate coffee, brew coffee or pick it. It is a global phenomenon and a monument to human ingenuity (and chemical dependence).

So here we are, two baristas and coffee enthusiasts in Columbus, Ohio named Damion and Bronwyn, casually drinking a cup of "global phenomenon." But where did we get it? Who made it? And, most importantly, how good is it? There are hundreds of places to get coffee in Ohio's capital city and only around forty-five of those places (not including certain national chains) could be considered "specialty coffee retailers." It is our goal to earnestly review each and every place in and around Columbus that sells any sort of specialty coffee. This means we'll be drinking and rating a lot of espresso and baristas, but a few Turkish and African cafes will be thrown in the mix as well. We'll also be posting some general articles and resources about the coffee industry and how it relates to agriculture, trade, the environment, and society.

With that said, let's get on to our first review and a snapshot of our coffee review rubric!

Cuppy's Coffee
849 N High St
Columbus, OH 43215
(614) 291-8110

Cuppy's Coffee is located in the Short North in Columbus, OH. It's a national franchise based out of Florida. Cuppy's is a run-of-the-mill coffee shop, not really differing from most others, serving the same mediocre beverages as most other shops. Huge smoothie advertisements and garish multimedia art works set the tone. Leather couches and small tables are lined against the wall of this very small storefront shop. A flat panel LCD television was tuned to CNN while ambient electronic music was played by a sattelite radio station.

Cuppy's service was very friendly and speedy, though they were not very busy. The barista was chatty and not arrogant (as many can be). A newcomer to the coffee industry, he was eager to talk shop and receptive to tips about pulling shots. However, the Cuppy's people left out a few details during the franchisee training program (nine days at their Florida HQ).

Drip Coffee

The drip coffee comes in the standard 12, 16, and 20 ounce cup sizes. A paper cup with logo-emblazoned sleeve was handed to me and I was directed to the self-serve airpots around a corner where three blends of coffee were available. Despite being self-serve, Cuppy's charges for refills.

The medium roast House Blend was pretty basic: low acidity, clean finish, woody/earthy flavor. It was not outstanding in any one category, presumably to appeal the cream and sugar crowd.

Shot of Espresso

It was an unimpressive shot of espresso common to many coffee shops accross the States. The barista did not have the requisite espresso knowledge to create a delicious beverage.

Beans: Caffe D'arte (developed by Cuppy's)

Barista Performance

Positives:
The barista ground per shot
Kept the portafilters in groups
Separate hand tamp (did not use the grinder's)

Negatives:
Portafilters were not cleaned properly between shots (used solely a coarse brush; no dry towel)
No purging between shots
No preheated cup
Did not pour shot directly into cup
Used stainless steel cup
Did not serve espresso with saucer nor spoon

Appearance

Shot was too fast
Thick, spaghetti-like streams, but badly discolored (tan)
Khaki colored crema that did not last long

Taste and Texture

Not as thick as it should be, but not the thinnest, either
Sour, plastic taste

Cappuccino

Although eager to talk about the ins and outs of coffee, the barista/owner simply did not know how to create a real, traditional cappuccino. There was only half an inch of foam that was bubbly and not smooth; although not as bad as bubble bath foam (where the foam looks like bath bubbles; this is not appealing nor delicious). Paired with a not so great shot of espresso, this cappuccino was drinkable but not something we would advise you do on a regular basis (in fact, it would be recommended to avoid Cuppy's).

Barista Performance

Used the same problematic espresso as before
Did not pour espresso directly into cup
Did not preheat the cup
Faulty ratio of liquid/foam
Foam was not free-poured; scooped
Bubbly foam
Did not offer whole milk; only 2%, skim, or half & half (I had 2%)
Served with saucer; no spoon

All-in-all, Cuppy's is there to sell product and prosper as a retail franchise. Although the owner is a nice enough guy, it is clear that he is a businessman first, barista second. Better suited to a mall, it seems out of place in a neighborhood of small businesses and restaurants that pride themselves on superior craft and unique experiences.

One last thing:

What we look for in a Coffee Shop and its Coffee

In the reviews, there will be a general overall assessment of the beverage, then a detailed account of imperative actions pertaining to preparing and serving coffee. These will be the drinks reviewed:

1. Espresso
2. Cappuccino
3. Drip
4. Beans (in french press, if possible)

The more detailed categories discussed later in the review will include Barista Performance, Appearance and Taste.

The standards for judging the coffee will be the following:

Espresso (double ristretto)
Barista Performance
Does the barista grind per shot?
How old is the coffee used?
What kind of coffee is used?
How long has it been in the hopper?
What kind of machine does the shop have?
Are the portafilters kept in the groupheads or out?
Does the barista purge the group before pulling a shot?
Is the basket in the portafilter wiped out before packed? What is the basket cleaning process?
What is the tamping method used?
How soon is the shot served?
Is the cup preheated?
Is the shot pulled directly into the serving cup?

Appearance and Taste
What kind of cup is used? (ceramic, porcelain)
Is the cup served with a saucer and spoon?
Is there crema? If so, what color?
Is it velvety in texture?
Does it taste smooth, sweet, caramelly?

Cappuccino (traditional)
Barista Performance
Does the barista use proper espresso shot procedure?
What is the timing of the milk and espresso? Does the espresso have to wait too long to be used?
Do they use fresh milk or resteam?
Is the milk steaming loud?

Appearance and Taste
Is the milk smooth? Are there bubbles? Does it look like melted ice cream?
What is the liquid/foam ratio?
Freepoured or scooped?
What kind of cup is used?
Served with saucer and spoon?

Drip Coffee
How fresh are the beans?
Is it watery?
What kind of roast is it?
What flavors can be tasted? Is it possible to taste the flavors?