KickStart: Scooters, Coffee, and a Unicorn

KickStart
913 N High Street
Columbus, Ohio 43201

Kickstart is in the Short North district of Columbus, independently owned, selling both scooters and coffee. The smell of rubber tires overwhelms the coffee smells one usually expects when entering a coffee shop. Parked next to the door is an old-style scooter for sale along with some mopeds and 50s-vintage Royal Enfield motorcycles. Helmets and jackets hang on racks alongside wooden displays of unusual and rare candies (like cult favorite Sen-Sen). Music from the era of British cafe racers filled the shop with the sounds of the Rolling Stones and the Kinks. Rounding out the stylish atmosphere were abstract paintings by Jacob Samblanet and polished metal diner tables that each had a container of coffee beans holding a deck of playing cards and artistically bent forks.

There are no pushy scooter salesmen ready to pounce on unwary customers who just want a coffee and some wi-fi bandwidth, just pierced and tattooed baristas. They were friendly and helpful when we asked them questions about the shop and how they made the coffee. When they did not have a pot of house drip coffee ready they brought the cup out to the table along with a pitcher of cream when it was done brewing. KickStart strikes that rare balance between unique employee personality and excellent customer service. It all comes down to the education of the baristas, though, and if they do not know what they are doing they will not know how to make a good cup of coffee.

Espresso

The espresso that Bronwyn got (Damion had an espresso previously that was much superior*) was a watery, bitter mess. Tan, dissipating crema circled the top for probably less than a minute. We did not finish it.

Equipment: La Marzocco (new and shiny), Swift grinder system

Beans: Caruso Coffee; Brecksville, Ohio (between Cleveland and Akron)

Positives:
Used dry towel for cleaning the portafilter basket
Portafilters were kept in groupheads between shots
Ceramic demitasse and saucer (no spoon, though)

Negatives:
Shot was way too fast
Did not preheat cup
Did not pull shot directly into demitasse (it was split into two shot glasses and reunited in the demitasse)
Crema was tan and did not linger
Did not purge the group before pulling another shot

*(Note from Damion: I had a double shot before Bronwyn arrived and it was amazing. The thick, persistent crema was flecked and swirled. Sweet, smooth, clean finish, firm body, and hints of cocoa had me convinced that this place knew what it was doing. After Bronwyn had her terrible shot and we shared an even worse third shot I acknowledged that the unicorn I tasted earlier had run far, far away.)

Cappuccino

This was a terrible cappuccino. First, they did not have a traditional sized (5-7oz) mug for traditional cappuccinos, yet they offered one on the menu. Second, we received bubble bath foam instead of melted-ice-cream milk froth. There were no positive aspects to this cappuccino, unfortunately.

Negatives:
Bubble bath foam
2% is their default milk
Did not preheat cup
Did not have proper sized cup
Did not serve with saucer nor spoon
Used same espresso procedures as above
Quickly became bitter
Terrible liquid/foam ratio (too much liquid, basically a latte)

Drip Coffee

The Organic blend was disappointing, although we did not have high expectations with which to begin. It was watery and boring. No flavors stood out and there was not great body, though when I added milk it held up sufficiently. The cream-worthy House blend had notes of wood fresh from a band saw. Like most drip coffees, the offerings here are well suited for absent-minded sipping.

Overall, KickStart was unimpressive. I would recommend this coffee shop solely for the relaxed atmosphere and friendly service. And selling $3 cappuccinos along with $3000 scooters is a brilliant business model and a fine example of entrepreneurial innovation. As for the coffee, well, it isn't great but you get free refills.